Chemical Composition and Structure
Emulsifier is an ester formed from sucrose and stearic acid. Sucrose is a disaccharide composed of glucose and fructose units. Stearic acid is an 18-carbon saturated fatty acid. In Emulsifier, the hydroxyl groups of the sucrose molecule react with the carboxyl groups of stearic acid to form ester bonds. This results in a molecule with both hydrophilic and lipophilic properties.
Physically, Emulsifier is a white, wax-like solid. It has a melting point between 50-60°C and is insoluble in water. The structure contains alternating hydrophilic sucrose and hydrophobic stearate chains that allow it to function well as an emulsifier.
Uses in Cosmetic Products
Due to its amphiphilic nature, Emulsifier is often used as an emulsifying agent in cosmetics. Some key applications and benefits include:
Creams and Lotions - It helps to form and stabilize oil-in-water emulsions commonly found in moisturizers, day creams, night creams, hand creams, and lotions. Emulsifier prevents the separation of the oil and water phases.
Cleansers - As an emulsifier, it allows cleansing formulas like facial washes, body washes, and shaving creams to maintain a homogeneous mixture of water and oil/lipid components.
Makeup Products - In foundations, tinted moisturizers, concealer, and other color cosmetics, Emulsifier enables the dispersion of pigments, solvents and other ingredients in an emulsion base.
Sunscreens - It can be added to sunscreen lotions and sprays to emulsify UV filters and ensure they stay well mixed and protected on the skin.
Shampoos and Conditioners - Its amphiphilic structure lets it solubilize conditioning oils in shampoo bases and helps deposit them on hair for moisturization.
Properties Contributing to Performance
Several attributes of Sucrose Stearate allow it to effectively perform its emulsifying function across different personal care applications:
- HLB Value - Its hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB) of approximately 15 makes it suitable for forming and stabilizing O/W emulsions.
- Low Irritancy - Being derived from sugar and fatty acid, it has low potential to cause skin irritation even at higher usage levels up to 10%.
- Biodegradability - Emulsifier is readily biodegradable, breaking down to non-toxic metabolites without harming the environment.
- Functionality - As an nonionic emulsifier, it does not disrupt the pH of formulations and works well synergistically with other emulsifiers.
- Versatility - Its emulsification properties are effective over a wide range of oil and water volume ratios. It also helps solubilize oils, waxes and other ingredients in emulsified products.
- Cost-Effectiveness - With good performance even at low use concentrations around 1-5%, it provides value as an economical option compared to some other emulsifiers.
Promotes Formulation Stability
The sturdy emulsion structures facilitated by Emulsifier aid in enhancing the shear and thermal stability of cosmetic preparations. Over long-term storage, it discourages problems like oil/water separation, changes in viscosity or consistency, and degradation of the appearance.
Emulsions containing Sucrose Stearate have demonstrated stability against conditions typically encountered during product shelf life, such as varying temperatures from 10-40°C. Researchers have reported no signs of instability after three months when samples were subjected to controlled thermal cycling tests.
Emulsifier also helps improve the stability of suspended pigments and powders within emulsified formulas. This attribute becomes vital for maintaining an consistent, appealing visual identity of color cosmetics. Well-dispersed, stabilized pigments translate to longer usability before reformulation may be needed.
Compliance With Standards
Sucrose Stearate is approved for use in cosmetics by important international regulating bodies. It is listed with the following regulatory statuses:
- FDA (US) - Recognized as safe for use as an emulsifying agent up to 15% concentration in cosmetics as per 21 CFR 172.850.
- ECHA (EU) - Registered on the REACH inventory and compliant for use under the EU Cosmetic Regulation 1223/2009.
- INCI Name - Emulsifier is its standardized international nomenclature adopted by the International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients.
These regulatory clearances cement Emulsifier's status as a food-grade, hypoallergenic and non-comedogenic emulsifier choice for cosmetic scientists. Manufacturers can feel assured about using it in products targeting global markets.
Versatile Emulsifier For Diverse Applications
In summary, Sucrose Stearate is a popular emulsifier for cosmetic formulators seeking to develop stable emulsions across multiple product categories. Its non-ionic nature, full regulatory approval and wide range of functional properties translate to a go-to solution for creams, lotions, cleansers and other personal care goods requiring an economic yet high-performing emulsifier system. Emulsifier helps unlock formulation possibilities while ensuring long shelf lives for the finished products.
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